Double length sling anchor for climbing reddit For an anchor, all I have is my trusty double-length sling. Mostly because its easier to untie an overhand knot or a clove hitch with it, and if you fell on it while using as a PAS its much safer than dyneema (see this scary DMM video showing 2 foot direct falls on slings). I'd also have the best angle possible between the two legs, minimizing the forces on each bolt. I use double length nylon sling to extend rappel or make a PAS for cleaning. See full list on outdoorgearlab. Pages 154 - 158 deal with off axis loading of cordelette anchors with both nylon and high tensile tape. . Now sling length is another aspect to consider. Look at the second edition of "climbing anchors" by John Long. Factors like the type of climbing, the length and type of route, the rock and character of the climbing area and your personal climbing style all play a role in how you set up your rack. Slings commonly come in intervals of 60cm and can be referred to as such: single length = 60cm, double length = 120cm, etc. com Oct 22, 2017 · Any issues with using a (nylon or dyneema) double-length sling (sliding x with limiters) for a two-bolt anchor, either on TR (where there's no issue with rope or biners running over an edge, so no static line build needed)? I usually use a quad or a sliding x with limiters made from 7 mm cord, but the slings are more compact, and I'm curious. jg A basic trad rack might include 12 single-length slings, 4 to 6 double-length slings and 2 triples (or 2 cordelettes) for the anchors. What's my best best for an anchor? A sliding-X would make the anchor perfectly equalized, but extensible. A double length sling is often sufficient to construct a good anchor from a pair of bolts. I haven't got that book to hand, I'll check it out next time I've got a copy lying around, thanks for the good May 3, 2018 · From left to right: 120cm Dyneema sling, 120cm nylon sling and a 240cm Dyneema sling. The nylon won out by a huge margin and it equalized much better. Say I've arrived at a two-bolt anchor, but I'm not 100% sure the bolts are bomber. grf kcjy ibqp ujulcr eyym bhfr vjnd wsxrowo dtgpzwkw ile