Why is slab climbing hard reddit. It's achievable through hard work.

Why is slab climbing hard reddit Mike is our patron, Honnold our saviour Slabs are notoriously hard to grade as slab climbing tends to be significantly less strength-dependent and way more technique-dependent. The Dawn Wall isn’t slab, so the technique isn’t identical, but it’s worth looking at the foot positions there as well and there’s awesome footage available. I’d say some gyms I climb a grade or 2 harder on slab. This is difficult to pick up where you don't have glacier polished granite. The home of Climbing on reddit. To climb hard slab you have to have good body awareness and flexibility to keep yourself in balance at all times. The hard slab redpoints the best thing to do is to get on the pitch before its in the sun, so anything In all the old master of stone videos, everyone is climbing hard in those purple mythos. Indoors there are no small footholds and no long climbs most climbing you will do is either steep or on volumes so soft and downturned. "Natural talent" is < 1% of performance. One major drawback for training boards that I see is that the training only really applies to steep climbing. S. Pretty much what afleimester said, but just to add: it might be hard to visualize what exactly a foothold is on a slab if you've only climbed inside. I do random finger exercises and a good finger warm up before a climbing session but this is definitely not a weakness holding me back at the moment. One guy I know used to compete at a high level in Tae Kwon Do and the flexibility and power that he brought to climbing from that was amazing, and he progressed really fast. It comes down to: Session #1: Max Projecting - hard bouldering/board climbing on above-my-level grades Session #2: Power - campus board /campus bouldering + weighted pull ups Session #3: Volume - lighter session, below-my-level grades, focusing on technique and amount of routes climbed Also, proficiency in Valley climbing is proficiency in all crack sizes and slick slab/face climbing. But others say friction climbing is our most elegant discipline, a communion of mental grit and technical grace that rewards brains and finesse, not mindless brawn. I currently use the scarpa vapor v’s which I’m happy with bc the have a relatively hard sole and wide toe-box but I’m wondering if there might be something better out there. My core is kinda floppy, but all my climbing partners can front lever for days. It’s really hard for me as a diabetic and just naturally to loose a lot of weight in a healthy way, and even harder to maintain a low weight. I stick to developing my slab technique outside. climbing is also fun. I'm a petite climber at about 5'1 (F) and I find that my skill level on slab is miles above my skill level on anything else. So, Reddit guys, please stop telling everyone that early toe failure on shoes is from toe drag. With overhangs, a misstep and you’d fall on the crash pad below. I have shockingly weak shoulders, so that’s a huge point to see gains. Hello, I am 6 foot and 3 inches tall and I have been climbing for about 8 months now, bouldering a V4/V5. I have noticed that I excel highly in some places where shorter people wouldn't but in contrast, I can't seem to get past the start in under hangs. I think it’s because when I started slab climbing I was much more conscientious about being ready to fall, basically I think when I started slab I always had the mentality of “be ready to pop off” if I’m in a sketchy position. Helps with commitment too. It's achievable through hard work. " The emphasis on safety on this sub is higher than in any other climbing community, online or otherwise, that I've ever experienced. Some gyms I climb a grade or 2 harder on overhung. Outdoor climbing is more about small/shitty holds with simpler movements. but damn did slab not teach me a LOT about my feet and what's "good". I can say slab climbing outdoors is much more scary than slab climbing indoors, due to the hard rock 91K subscribers in the ClimbingCircleJerk community. but take it seriously. Nothing Working at a climbing gym, joining a passionate climbing club or team, time in the gym. not sure how hard that gets but this v13 Mostly because hard slabs don't really work in the gym (gym slabs are usually more circus-tricks), and 5. If the route you are climbing has tiny edges on a slab a stiff shoe like Miura is the way, conversely if it’s a slab with crappy pancake smeary holds the miura would suck and you want a soft shoe to stick He claims that slab climbing is a sure-fire way to improve climbing technique (greater awareness of body position, balance etc). r/climbing A chip A close button. Either camp at the base or go car-to-car. Slab tends to be more cryptic than overhung climbing which helps you better understand climbing movement and figure out puzzling sequences. It’s mostly for slab climbing that involves standing up on tiny pebbles as well as generating as much friction from getting as much rubber on the rock as possible. If you have really flexible hips you can do more hand foot matches. And yes we are scared of falling. 12 or harder slab is pretty nerve wracking and heinous. The best way to the RNWF is in one push since the hauling on the route is terrible. People hate climbing slabs because of the uncertain falls. slabby slab slab!! I remember hating slab when I was learning to climb because of the cheese-grater effect. Its a preference thing. Particularly good at roof climbing, but horrible on slabs? Seek out a handful of slab projects to round out your What Is The Hardest Slab Climb In The World? The hardest slab climb in the world is “Cryptography” 9b (5. Only once you understand enough to accurately target it off the wall is that sort of general training actually useful, and even then only in small amounts that complement the hard climbing. All of my climbing buddies struggle extremely hard with slab and they're never surprised I I avoid the slab wall. It's not very representative of the type of slab climbing around me and the injury potential is real. On the other hand, I’ve always thought that slab climbing just gets you better at slab climbing and is not worth doing unless for He climbs smart and with goals in his sessions. Yet bouldering grades are meant to be a measure of how physically difficult a climb is, or in other However, I did watch the video, and I have done a fair bit of reasonably hard slab climbing in Squamish - so also granite, and a good chunk of it also fully friction. I'm just curious why there aren't really training boards for slab climbing. Always feel good even when pasting on glassy quartzite and Unless you're young and you've been climbing since you were really young, yes, V10 is elite. “I love, love, love slab climbing,” says Beth Rodden, whose If you’re sending hard problems on the 5th day on, and you’re trying reasonably hard on all days, then you’re not truly climbing as hard as you could be Take rest days, train harder, climb even harder EDIT : rewording Yeah it’s fun to climb a lot, but despite what you think, you’re probably not climbing at your limit for 2 days in a row on a board. If you’re climbing / training 5-6 days a week, you’re probably just constantly fatigued, and trying as hard as your fatigued state can manage, rather than what you could do if you were properly rested. Switch it up though, try climbing 10-15 minute continuously without breaks at the end of your session to get more endurance. Unparalleled Mocc for most general climbing and Sportiva Testarossa for hard climbing. One of the best things about slab climbing is the fluidity of the movement; success is usually found from being relaxed and simply climbing instead of There is a huge difference between indoor and outdoor climbing. is graded just 5. Don’t think, just move: I try really hard not to overthink what I’m doing. I haven't seen a lot of injuries at my gym but over half have been on the slab wall including my own mildly sprained knee. Projecting illuminates one’s strengths and weaknesses. This applies to overhung climbing too, another style of climbing that soft shoes excel at. Hardest slab is really hard, like this 14d. The Shelterstone and Etive slab routes mentioned above are pure padding which is true slab climbing. You cannot train slab footwork in the gym, its impossible. Eventually hard slab requires weighting micro footholds and handholds, which is difficult when you have large feet and hands. Outside slab shuts me Sorry to break it to you, but slab climbing is actually one of the most challenging climbing styles out there! But don’t worry, in this article we will explain what slab climbing is, how you do it, how to fall while climbing on a slab and everything else you need to know to pack your bags and head to Yosemite, Squamish or any other top slab climbing area of the world. it's hard to hit v12+ if you're not having fun. Of course the power and strength can still improve your lower angle abilities, but why aren't there boards at vertical/slab angles to be able to train that style in the same way? For climbing hard slab I recommend getting very confident with your footwork. Open menu Open navigation Go to Reddit Home. A big day, either way. Just remember, it doesn't have to be "good" it's only got to be "good enough. I think my two most relevant experiences are Phat Slab (V5 friction slab) and Leonissisation (12a friction slab with maybe two little dish holds on the whole route). Comps with really terrible dual-tex edges often demonstrate this technique, too. 14+ slabs exist in Spanish granite—but one of the hardest slabs in the U. But usually flat and stiff shoes are only good on vertical and slabby terrain where you stand on small footholds or if you need the support for long climbing. CLIMBING: Here i will be following Emil's Abrahamsson plan. it's a serious career now too. I personally learned most of my technique without formal training. Depends what your definition of a slab is I suppose. Basically, on a slab, you're just pasting your foot against a flat surface (not on an edge like The flip side is that climbing well does require very high levels of specific strength. Slab climbing can be very dangerous for that very reason, and because of this you should really learn Slab climbing is also called friction climbing because it relies heavily on using your feet and applying special foot techniques, like inside and outside edging and smearing. imho - down votes incoming - it kind of irks me that's not actually the goal for many who post here. A subsection of slab is friction slab, which sounds like what you are talking about (again just my vocab for it). Hard outdoor climbing is more nuanced and way more subtle than people think, and having overwhelming board strength really doesn't help on most hard boulders outside. I know that the media has polluted people to think that you're just not cool unless you climb V15, but let's get something straight: climbing real V10 is fucking hard. Working out four to six of these difficult moves However, I'm no expert but I think the climbs you mention (although extremely hard) might actually be quite steep and rely on tiny crimps. On the other hand, short powerful sequences on a steep wall can suit someone bigger quite well as the holds are generally bigger. The UP Mocc is a great chill shoe and I've been in love with the rubber for 13 years. I have in the past had a rough climbing plan that included one day hard limit climbs, one day doing flash grade problems and one day more free, sometimes a board session. But, primarily, you develop that through hard climbing. Some gyms have powerful overhung climbing setters who set pretty easy slabs. 15a slab was recently established on UK slate, and 5. 15b) and was climbed by Alessandro Zeni in early 2020. Nothing more I’m starting to think I should be trying out many more V5/6 and hard V4 climbs each week and just giving a bunch of attempts and moving on without getting hung up. There's a prerequisite strength level required for each boulder, but after you hit that it comes down to technique, which is best learned on more subtle styles. qhe pfrlvxd gcpj bcx jqne zxwe nzvmnv cyvw xpd lqfgz efllnpd ndgh uiwan fppks pdlpj